We arrived in Kota Kinabalu airport around 7pm, and a transfer bus with very defined personal space took us into the city center. We booked a room in advance on Kinabalu travel lodge & tour center, for our first night, but it certainly wasn't what we expected. On the internet it said that it's a perfect place to arrange tours from, and that staff here is helpful and has good knowledge about Borneo in general, and the name kind of give it away.
Well, we got there and first of all the place was smelling of a mix between wet dog and food gone bad, and the staff barely understood english. To be honest they couldn't help us with anything, not even where to find a tourist agency. We got our basic room, dropped our bags and returned to the fresh air.
We tried in vain to find the head office that arranges tours to Mountain Kinabalu, as we then could get around all the expensive intermediary. No one could help us and due to the late hours we gave up and postponed it to the following morning. KK has a lot of foodmarkets, so we had some really cheap food at one of all the stalls. After a strolling around the streets this night, KK hadn't caught our attention, so we wanted to get a move on the next day. The thing is that almost everything on Borneo is arranged from KK, so here was our only opportunity to get the permissions for the mountain and the diving arranged, and we had to do it all in one day and then move on.
The mountain only allows 121 climbers per day, and the diving allows 120 per day, so we had to be lucky to fit it into our schedule, specially because most people book these things 3-12 months in advance - but to save money, we don't! Fingers were crossed for the next day.
Friday 4th April
In daylight we quickly found the head office for Mt. Kinabalu (Sutera Harbour Sanctuary). Now we really had to make an exact plan of our time on Borneo, as the spaces on the mountain is limited and some days were fully booked already. We couldn't book anything before we had spoken to the divecenters aswell, it all needed to fit perfectly together.
The divecenter we talked to was fully booked until the start of June, but they could offer us space with another company. That turned out to cost us a fortune, as we had to stay at their resort for at least 3 days, so it was way too expensive for us, and it actually didn't fit very good with the days available on the mountain. We were a bit confused and stressed out of all the informations, specially because they didn't suit our plans. We had to skip the diving, since climbing the mountain was our first priority, so that would be the 9th-10th of April.
We wanted to visit the jungle around Kinabatangan river aswell, for 3 days and 2 nights, and luckily that didn't cause us any troubles, we just called them and booked the tour for the next day. It was perfect, now we just needed to catch the last bus to Sandakan at 2pm. We rushed back to our "delightful" hotel and grabbed our bags and off we went. The busride was very unpleasant, the driver was young, unexperienced and irresponsible. I regret that I didn't gave him shit about his driving, but I guess I was to relieved to get out of the bus, when we finally arrived in Sepilok.
We were dropped off at a roundabout on the main road, together with a german guy, Hansi (unfortunately not Hintersehr). We walked towards the direction of the guesthouses, near the Rehabilitation center for Orangutans. It was dark, the sky was full of shinning stars and there was a peacefulness that is hard to describe. Soon we realized that it was a long walk to the guesthouses, so we decided to hitchhike, and hoped to get a ride from one of the few cars passing us. We got in the trunk of a small truck and he drove us to what he thought was near Sepilok bed & breakfast, it was kind of him to give us a ride, but once again we experienced that the asians just nod their head to something they don't know anything about. Needless to say, we walked back the same way we came from, and after another peaceful walk in the dark we finally reached the bed & breakfast, 65MR (120kr) for a double room. We were all hungry, but due to the time, there was only one dining place open in this little town. The receptionist was helpfull and drove us to the place, where we enjoyed our dinner in company with Hansi and 2 random girls, who was also going to do some jungle trekking.
Sorry that we don't have any Pictures from these days!
Saturday 5th April
Breakfast was a tame round of white toast bread, served with jam and honey. We still had some left overs of canned liverpate, so at least we had one energy source. We then left the B&B and hitchhiked to Uncle Tan's Lodge, the company we booked the jungle tour with. They offered a free transfer to the Orangutan Rehabilitation center and we spend 3 hours there.
The center covers 40 square km and is open to the wild nature. That means that the apes comes of free will, they get feeded here two times a day. Some apes never come back after they're released from the center, and some keeps coming back because of the easy food and their attachment to the humans who raised them. There was tree apes coming to the feeding station this day, and it was really amazing to see them in their natural enviroment.
We enjoyed lunch back at Uncle Tan's before we got transfered 1½ hour by a van, with a non-working cooling system in dazzling sunshine, it was unbearable hot. We all got a big black plastic bag that we wrapped around our bags, in case of rain or water in the boat. Then a shining orange life jacket and we were ready to set off along Kinabantangan river.
The river was brown, muddy, and surrounded by green nature, it was very autentic and beautiful. Our guide, Akin told us he would slow down whenever he saw some wildlife, although this was just a transfer, not a river safari. We saw macaque monkeys everywhere, they're such a often sight, so we didn't stop to watch them. Akin said we would see lots of them during the next couple of days.
We call them the rubbish monkeys, since they're everywhere, they causes people troubles and can be very agressive at times. We saw many white herons, they're very easy to spot since their colour is different from everything else along river.
We arrived at Uncle Tan's lodge after one hour boatride. The huts were on wooden stilts, and during raining season some of the lodge area is flooded with water, luckily we came in the dry season. It definitely wasn't a 5-star hotel we checked in to, everything was pretty basic, we shared a window and door less hut with two other couples. We got what we needed: a mattress and a mosquito net. Each hut was provided with a big plastic bucket and a lid, where all our sweet stuff like snacks, tootpaste, shampoo, medicine etc. should be storaged, so we could avoid unwanted visitors (rats) during the night. We chatted with the other people during the afternoon, and to our big surprise we were 7 scandinavians out of 13 people, but no danes!
We had an orientation meeting with our guide Akin, where he explained the program to us, not only once, but frankly he mentioned every sentence at least tree times. He was getting on every ones nerves in the end, and we felt a little disappointment passing, when Hansi asked him basic question about the river, the villages, population and so on... And our poor guide couldn't answer, because he only taught himself to tell about the program. Oh well, I'd give him one thing though, he was damn good at spotting the wildlife on the river, actually really impressing, and that was the most important thing. At the night safari he showed us a tiny baby crocodile, king fisher birds and many owls. There was a much richer animal life here, than anywhere else we have been (except for underwater off cause). Dinner was buffet and also very basic, almost vegetarian and an unlimited amount of steamed rice.
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| Our free drive |
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| It got a bit crowded in the car, since they couldn't open the trunk |
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| Public toilet |
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Orangutan Rehab Center video
Jungle camp day 1
We went on a sunrise safari, and the mangroves was so alive at this time, we saw monitor lizards, big crocodiles, silverleaf monkeys, hornbills and king fishers. It was so amazing and satisfying to see all this in the wild, and not through a fence in a zoo. After another tame breakfast we went for a so-called jungle trek, although that would be a exaggeration, cause we only got to walk 700-800 meter within an hour. Every tree required an explanation, according to Akin.. It got so annoying. He taught us the tree names in Malay and assumed we remembered them. To be honest we couldn't care less.
In the afternoon there was nothing on the program. We had a refreshing bucket shower, with water from the river. At least we felt a little cleaner and less sweaty, but how clean we actually got is still unknown. We spend the afternoon snoozing under our safety (mosquito) net.
Cruised on the river again around sunset and once again we were amazed over the outstanding and spectacular wildlife. We saw proboscis monkeys in several trees around a protected area. Borneo is the only place in the world where they live and you can see them in the wild. They were our maindrag to do the jungle tour, so our mission was completed.
Akin took us on a night jungle trek, we saw a few spiders and some different bugs, but all we could think about was dinner. We were all starving, and when we finally got back to the camp, most of the food trays were empty. The new people who had arrived was apparently also hungry, so they finished it all, without knowing that there were more people coming. This made me a bit angry, cause the kitchen staff should have told them or left half of the food in the kitchen until we arrived. All right I tried not to get to carried away, and nicely asked for some more and hot food, and they made a few vegetables for us and of course more rice. I was fine with that, because I'm use to the standards now, but if I had been put in a situation like this a home, it would turn out with me making a really big scene!!! A normal occupation damage that we all have in some kind of way, whatever our occupations are.
Anyway the thought about trying the local ricewine was also a factor that made me more calm about the food situation. We went early to bed again, listening to the sounds of all the animals and the fact that they're so close to you is a special feeling, and one of its kind.
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| Kinabatangan river |
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| He's turning into a monkey soon... |
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| The leftovers from the Cicadas, after shedding their skin |
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| Tasting the local rice wine |
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| Scorpion with it's baby.. Luckily far away form our hut |
Jungle camp day 2
Monday 7th AprilThis morning was pretty amazing, a thick fog was covering the river, it looked mind blowing and on our safari we saw gibbons and a big crocodile enjoying the glorious morning sun.
Back in the camp we got our stuff together, ate breakfast and that was the end of our adventures for now. We were god damn lucky that our guide spotted some orangutans on our cruise back, just as we thought it was over, we got to see orangutans playing in the trees, so mission was totally completed. We couldn't ask for more, and was absolutely satisfied with all the wildlife we had seen the last tree days. Uncle Tan's lodge back in Sepilok served us lunch and then we were ready to move on.
We catched the public bus from the round-about at the mainstreet, and luckily this ride was much more pleasant than last time. It took around 5 hours to get to the entrance to the Kinabalu National Park, which was our next stop. It was dark when we arrived, and we actually booked a place in advance, but after looking at the signs and calling another place, Erik realized we booked the wrong place. This other place was cheaper and closer to the park entrance, and due to the very soon coming rain we decided to go there instead.
We got a basic room with hot shower for 60MR (110kr) per night. We were in 1500 m hights, and lived in a wodden house without a heating source, so it got quite chilly at night.
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| Camp surroundings |
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| A mini bus filled with very tired people |
Jungle camp day 3
Tuesday 8th April
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| Dressed to match the surroundings |
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| Mount Kinabalu |
Wednesday 9th April
After eating breakfast we walked to the headquarter of the park, looking around for someone to climb the mountain with and split the costs of a guide with. We payed for the permission, accomodation and insurance already, 596 RM each (1200kr) but we needed to pay for the guide (128 RM = 256kr) aswell, the transfer wasn't included in the price either. We quickly found an american girl (Joanna), with the same intentions as us, we splitted the guide cost with her, and left the headquarter for a 4 km drive to the entrance of the trail ( in1866m).
The next 3 hours and 45 min, was a challenging uphill walk (6 km trail), the terrain varied a lot, from loose small rocks to big steady colourful rocks. The further we got up the more visible the mountain apperared to us, and it was a spectacular view. Our guide and Joanna were far behind us, but we kept going strong to keep our muscles warm. On the way we met a lot of porters, they walk the trek each day, sometimes twice. They get paid by weight and carry around 25-35 kg each, on very uncomfortable wooden boards.
The next 3 hours and 45 min, was a challenging uphill walk (6 km trail), the terrain varied a lot, from loose small rocks to big steady colourful rocks. The further we got up the more visible the mountain apperared to us, and it was a spectacular view. Our guide and Joanna were far behind us, but we kept going strong to keep our muscles warm. On the way we met a lot of porters, they walk the trek each day, sometimes twice. They get paid by weight and carry around 25-35 kg each, on very uncomfortable wooden boards.
Just before we reached Laban Rata (3273m), we started to feel short of breath due to the thin air. At Laban Rata we checked in to our 4-bed dorm, and enjoyed our lunch, consisting of white toast bread with fillings. Here we had the rest of the day to relax and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.
Mt. Kinabalu is the highest peak in Maritime Southeast Asia, and we still had 800 m (2,7 km trail) to the summit, and we would start climbing again at 3am to reach the summit by sunrise. The afternoon went by with a lot of card playing, and after an early dinner we slipped to bed. Even though we were covered up in blankets, it was still cold during the night.
Thursday 10th April
Mt. Kinabalu is the highest peak in Maritime Southeast Asia, and we still had 800 m (2,7 km trail) to the summit, and we would start climbing again at 3am to reach the summit by sunrise. The afternoon went by with a lot of card playing, and after an early dinner we slipped to bed. Even though we were covered up in blankets, it was still cold during the night.
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| One of the many porters |
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| Almost at the basecamp |
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| View from the basecamp restaurant |
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| Killing time until dinner is served |
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| Sunset from the basecamp |
After 700m the real climb began. Without any possibility to see more than our headlamps allowed us, we climbed up a wall, holding onto a rope. I remember I thought to myself that I was happy that I couldn't see exactly what we climbed on, that would have made me more nervous.
After the checkpoint we reached an open area, it was hard to tell how big it was, but definitely wider than anywhere else we had walked on the mountain. It was at this time we really started to feel the thin air, we walked very slowly to maintain our breathing at a reasonable level, it was freezing cold as soon as we stopped walking, so we kept on going. It felt like ages before we reached the summit, we were really cold, but at the same time totally satisfied with our achievement. We reached the summit after 2 hours and 20 min, just in time for the sunrise... Needless to say the view was spectacular, fantastic, beautiful and litterally breathtaking.
We watched the sunrise, and then we started our decending. It was a totally other experience to walk down, I mean we had an imagination of how it looked, but seeing it in daylight was totally different from what we thought. Couldn't get enough of the stunning view of both the mountain and the valley far far away. After 1 hour and 40 min we again reached Laban Rata. Here we collected some new energy from the big breakfast buffet, before our journey down the mountain continued.
We had 6 km to the bottom, and it would be a lie to say that it was a pleasant walk, particularly the last 2 km. The right description would be painfull, unbearable and exhausting (for me). Erik was superior and full of energy, or at least he pretended to be.
After 3 hours and 15 min, we finally arrived in the bottom again, we had a big lunch at the parks cafeteria, had quite a big appetite after that hard walk. We then collected our backpacks, back at the guesthouse and left towards Kota Kinabalu with a minibus (20RM each = 40kr). Our first intention was to hitchhike to KK, but more and more people came to the parking lot where we were, so it became harder for us to make a car stop.
Eventually a minibus showed up and we decided to join the group in the bus. We quickly found a hostel (North Borneo Cabin, 25RM = 50kr, for a dorm bed) in KK, together with Joanna. We shared room with tree other girls, had dinner together with them. One of them were danish Line, who we hanged out with till late that night.
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| Walked 2 km. in almost 2 hours - still 700m. to go. |
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| MISSION ACCOMPLISHED |
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| Shadow of Mt. Kinabalu |
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| Amazing views from walking down in daylight |
Mt. Kinabalu video
Today's plan was to visit one of the small islands just of the coast of Kota Kinabalu. It was an exhausting proces to figure out which boatcompany to choose and which island to visit. We planned to rent a tent and stay on the island for a night, and apparently that was only possible on Mamutik Island. Later we figured out, that it was possible on all islands, but we had to arrange the tent before arrival then.
Mamutik was full of chinese people wearing glaring orange lifejackets and religious Malay people covered up in too much clothes (if you ask me) and hiding in the shadow of the trees. There was only a few round-eyed on the island, all in a great distance away from the noisy Asians who scream and laugh as if they were all deaf. We found a spot away from the noise aswell and put up our little iglo tent. As the time passed by, more and more people left the island again, most people are doing island hoping during the day, and then they return to their hotels in KK in the afternoon, so at night it was only us, 3 other guys in a tent on the other beach on the island and some staff who lived on the island.
It got really peaceful and quiet, just what we wanted. We had brought some snacks and some cupnoodles. The restaurant on the island closed at 4pm, so we had a early dinner and survived on snacks during the night. In the forest behind our tent we discovered big monitor lizards, very attracted to the big garbage dump. Although we only saw one at a time, we could tell on their sizes that there was plenty of them. We spend some time watching them, while we were collecting wood for a bonfire.
The night passed by with card plays, watching the sunset, enjoying the silent surroundings and dreaming our life away. We had no camping gear, except for the tent, and our sleeping bags and pillows that we brought along , but we got through the night with that.
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| Mamutik in the busy hours |
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| Asian womens beach style |
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| Finally quiet on Mamutik, with Kota Kinabalu and Mt. Kinabalu in the background |
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| Robinson Crusoe |
I can't imagine a better way to wake up than opening the tent, watch the sunrise, listening to the birds singing and watching the calm sea.. All right maybe in a 5 star hotel right on the beach with a porch and served breakfast, but since that's not gonna happen, this was a great second choice.
We enjoyed the peacefull morning, before people started showing up on the beach again. After a lot of sun we returned to KK in the late afternoon.
We checked in at North Borneo Cabin again, and reseached about getting to Brunei and what to see there. The boat company leaving from KK to Brunei were closed, so we couldn't book the ticket for the next morning. The manager at the hostel said it most likely would be fully booked, since everybody from Brunei travels to Malaysia, specially Labuan island, in the weekends to get drunk and party (There's no alcohol in Brunei). We had booked our flight out of Brunei to Bali, so we had to get there sooner or later. We got a bit concerned whether we could get a boat ticket or not. Bus transportation to Brunei, should take over 10 hours, so there was no interrest in doing such thing.
Our only option to book a ticket was to be at the office when they opened next morning, and then hope they would have space left.
I had put my head up for indian chicken tikka masala, and unfortunately we ended up in a very costly restaurant, where we spended what we usually spend on two meals, on the famous chicken. Frankly it was a bit disappointing, it missed the special tikka taste, so not only did we pay way to much for it, but we also left with disappointed. Damn it!
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| Stunning sunrise, seen from our bedroom |
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| Enjoying the beach life |
Mamutit Island video
Sunday 13th AprilThe first boat brought us to Labuan island, it was freezing cold in the cabin, and the staff couldn't turn off the air-condition - but they were friendly enough to show me to an empty and warmer cabin, when I complained about the temperature.
We had about two hours waiting time on Labuan Island, before the next boat transferred us to Brunei. We spend our last Malay money on lunch. It's always funny when we leave a country and still have some money left. We both turn into small children, who just got pocket money, and wanna spend them in the right way and trying to get the best value out of it. After another boatride we arrived in Brunei.
To be continued...
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| Malay money |
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